The 10 Most Influential Sneakers in Tokyo's Street Culture

Sneakers began to wield undeniable influence over Tokyo’s street culture in the 1990s. The NBA boom helped the Air Jordan series gain popularity, while vintage sneakers from the 70s and 80s also began to attract attention. However, the pivotal moment was the release of the Nike Air Max 95. Initially, the model didn’t cause much of a stir, but as time passed, it became the first sneaker to spark a social phenomenon in Japan. The rise of Air Max hunters and the spread of fake products marked a turning point for Tokyo's sneaker culture, which has since grown into a vibrant and dynamic part of the city’s identity.

Air Jordan 5 (1990)

One of the most iconic models of the Air Jordan series, the Air Jordan 5, broke through in Tokyo’s market during its release. Inspired by fighter jets, its sleek materials and design made it a global favorite. This model marked the beginning of sneaker culture becoming a social topic in the U.S. and beyond.

Nike Air Max 91

The first Nike Air Max model to catch the attention of Tokyo’s street scene. Later known as the Air Classic BW, it gained popularity thanks to its range of color variations and strong connection to hip-hop culture. This sneaker set the stage for the growing influence of Nike’s technology in Japan’s fashion world.

Nike Air Max 95

Perhaps the most groundbreaking sneaker release of the 20th century in Japan, the Nike Air Max 95 triggered a massive movement in the sneaker scene. Its revolutionary design, inspired by the human body, and its neon yellow color scheme broke all previous conventions. This model symbolizes the rise of Tokyo’s sneaker culture, contributing significantly to the global sneaker revolution.

Nike Dunk High/Low Tokyo City Attack (1999)

The re-release of the Dunk line in 1999 was a pivotal moment for sneakerheads in Japan. The limited-edition "Tokyo City Attack" model, known for its reverse color scheme, became a sought-after collectible and laid the foundation for Nike’s strategic growth in the Japanese market.

Nike HTM Air Woven (2000)

As part of Nike’s Alpha Project, the Air Woven was a groundbreaking concept model, pushing the boundaries of sneaker design with its woven upper. A bold statement of sustainability and style, this model, along with the Air Presto, highlighted the innovative spirit of Nike's future-forward designs.

Nike HTM Air Force 1 Low (2001)

The HTM line, a collaboration between Mark Parker, Tinker Hatfield, and Hiroshi Fujiwara, brought luxurious materials and craftsmanship to the Air Force 1 Low. Its high-end design and unique packaging turned the sneaker into a premium collector's item.

Nike Dunk Low Pro SB Tokyo (2003)

Released as part of the “White Dunk” exhibition, the Dunk Low Pro SB Tokyo featured a minimalist, canvas-like upper. With only 200 pairs released, this sneaker became an instant collector’s item, representing Tokyo's boundless creative potential within the street fashion scene.

Nike Air Jordan 1 High Retro OG Fragment (2017)

Collaborating with Fragment, Hiroshi Fujiwara brought a fresh twist to the Air Jordan 1, incorporating a clean royal blue colorway. Its iconic thunderbolt logo and exclusive branding made this release a must-have, igniting frenzied demand among sneakerheads worldwide.

Nike Sacai LD Waffle (2019)

Sacai’s collaboration with Nike resulted in the LD Waffle, a radical reinterpretation of classic running shoe designs. This avant-garde sneaker, with its stacked elements and bold aesthetic, pushed the boundaries of sneaker design, becoming a major disruptor in the global sneaker market.

Nike Dunk High Pro SB FPAR (2019)

Created in collaboration with Japanese streetwear brand FORTY PERCENT AGAINST RIGHTS, this Dunk SB hybrid integrated elements from iconic Air Jordan models. The result was a unique fusion of classic silhouettes that captured the essence of Tokyo’s urban landscape.